A brief Idea About Kodungallur
This city is situated at about 35 kilometers from Trichur, in the state of Kerala, with the Arabian sea on one side and Periyar river on the other. With a rich history to go by it, the land is surrounded by backwaters and the sea. It is more like an island. Kodungallur which is now a muncipality ,is also famous as Cranganore. It has lot of tales, of its illustrious past, to tell.
HISTORY OF KODUNGALLUR
The Bhagawati temple at Kodungallur is of great renown throughout the state of Kerala.
Kodungallur Bhagavathy.
Kodungallur Bhagavathy Temple.
Kodungallur is important not only in the history of Kerala, but also of India as a whole. It is mentioned in the epics Ramayana, Mahabharatha and the Chilappathikaram. The poets Pathanjali and Karthiyayan have referred to it, as well as the travelogues of both Pliny the Elder and Ptolemy under different names. Moreover, Kodungallur is mentioned in the stone writings of Asoka.
The Kodungallur temple is one of the four Devi temples which Bhargava Raman is said to have installed at the four boundaries of Kerala. The popular belief is that in order to save the devotees from the epidemic of chicken pox, the Lokambika was installed in the Kodungallur temple by Bhargava Raman. This is one of the rare temples where the Brahmins are not performing the pooja.
Kodungallur was also the capital of Cheraman Perumal, the last Chera ruler in the 7th century AD. He is believed to have been abdicated his throne and divided his kingdom among the local chieftains and left for Mecca to embrace Islam. This place was later ruled by the Kingdom of Cochin (Perumpadapu Swaroopam). During the time of the Chera ruler, Kodungallur was an important trade link in Indian Ancient Maritime History. It was known as Muziris to Pliny the Elder (N.H. 6.26), who describes it as primum emorium Indiae. The port was familiar to the author of the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea who described it as being situated on Pseudostomos river (Ψευδόστομος: Greek for "false mouth" - a precise translation of theMalayalam description of the mouth of the Periyar, Alimukam) two miles from its mouth [3].
Studies by archaeologist Dr. K.P. Shajan and his associate V. Selvakumar of the Centre for Heritage Studies have unearthed the clues to this ancient port at a place called "Pattanam" (meaning 'the city' in Malayalam) around 10 km from Kodungallur. Among the many things unearthed were Roman amphora pieces, West Asian pottery (200 BC - 700 AD), Chinese pottery (1700 AD), rouletted ware and copper coins. They also excavated a boat made of a single wood which indicates that the place was an erstwhile shore. Radio carbon dating shows the age of the boat to be approximately 2,500 years. The brick structure excavated is a clear indication of early human settlement in this area.
Muziris, near the tip of India, in the Peutinger Table.
The ancient Greek explorer Hippalus landed at this port after discovering the patterns of the Indian monsoontrade winds on his way from the aast African coast. Evidence of the Peutinger Table suggests that there was a temple dedicated to the Roman emperor Augustus.
The Greeks, the Romans (known locally as the Yavanas) and the Jews all have come to this place at different times in its history.
Roman gold and silver coins bearing impressions of Roman Emperors Tiberius and Nero were discovered in the village of Parur near the town in 2000.
A second-century papyrus from Egypt concerning the transshipment of goods originating in Muziris from the Red Sea to Alexandria attests to the continued importance of the port in the Indian Ocean commerce trade a century after Pliny and the Periplus.[4]
Thomas the Apostle of Jesus landed in Cranganore in the year AD 52 and preached the [gospel] and built the Church in Truth and Spirit among the Namboothiris of Kerala as other communities did not allow worship then. Monuments built in the memory of Thomas still exist. A thriving Christian belief attracted the attention of others and the bishops who came from [Asyria] after Mar Sapor first landed in Kerala in 825 AD at Kollam, chosing this place for their residence. The bones of the right hand of St. Thomas were placed in 1953 as a memento.
Malik Ibn Dinar and 20 others who were the followers of Prophet Muhammad, the founder of Islam, first landed here when they came to India. Islam received royal patronage in some Indian states and later spread to other parts of India. Muhammad built a mosque in the shape of a Hindu temple. It could well be the first mosque in the Indian subcontinent as the exact date of making is not known but is believed to be in 629 AD. However, generally it is considered to be the second mosque of the world after the mosque in Medina, Saudi Arabia
Cheraman Perumal Juma Masjid before it was renovated.
The renovated Cheraman Juma Masjid
The flood of the river Periyar in 1341 resulted in the splitting of the left branch of the river into two just before Aluva. The flood silted the right branch (known as River Changala) and the natural harbour at the mouth of the river and resulted in the creation of a new harbour at Kochi. Durng the flood, an island was formed with the name Vypinkara between Vypin and Munambam.
The church was firmly established in Kodungallur before the 9th century. However, the arrival of Mar Sapor in Kollam on invitation of namboothiris of Deva Loka Kara who was not accepting Adi Shankara's denouncement of Christ, made Christianity a thriving religion of the oriental orthodox order until Udyam Peroor Sunahadose in the 16th century, when the Roman Catholic Church took control over the malabar church with the help of the Portuguese. However, the orthodox church wrested back control with the Kunnan Kurushu pledge, but lost a major portion to the Pope.
In fact, the settlement of the Jews in Kodungallur was still earlier. They claimed to hold grants dated back until 378 AD. The cruelty of the Portuguese drove most of the Jews to CochinUp to 1314, when Vypin harbour was formed, the only opening in the Cochin backwater, outlet for the Periyar was at Kodungalur, which must then have been the best harbour on the coast. In 1502, the Syrian Christians invoked the protection of the Portuguese. Under their influence, most of the Syrian Christians accepted Latin Rite in Kodungallur. Kodungallur became Archdiocese in 1609, but was annexed to the Vicariate of Verapoly in 1838. Further in 1886, the diocese itself was suppressed. In 1987, the Archdiocese of Verapolywas bifurcated and the Diocese of Kottapuram was formed. Catholics in Kodungallur today belong to this diocese.
There was the rise of the Samoothiri Rajas of Kozhikode in the early 16th century. The town was nearly completely destroyed by the Portuguese (Suarez de Menezes) on September 1, 1504 in retaliation for the Samoothiri Raja's actions against them[5].
In 1523, Portuguese built their first fort and entlarged it in 1565. In 1661, the Dutch took the fort and its possession was contested between this nation for the next forty years. In 1776, Tipu Sultan seized the stronghold. The Dutch recaptured it two years later and gave it to Tipu Sultan in 1784. He sold it to the Travancore Raja and again in 1789 to Tippoo, who finally destroyed it the following year.
After Tipu's death, the Kodungallur Kovilakam controlled the lands of Kodungallur. Kodungallur then formed an autonomous principality subordinate to the Raja of Cochin and remained thus until Indian Independence in 1947. The Kodungallur Kovilakam was renowned as a centre of learning [6] during this period. Scholars from all over Kerala came to live in the palaces and study Sanskrit and Vedic science.
Places to watch :
he present day town has some very interesting sights:
Kodungallur Bagavathy temple is believed to have been constructed during the reign of Chera King,Cheran Senkuttuvan. It is famous for its Bharani and Thalappoli festival. The temple requires the pilgrim to carry pepper and turmeric powder as one of the offerings to the deity.
The Bharani festival at the Kodungallur Bhagawati temple is a month of festivities of the Bharani asterism in the month of Aquarius to seven days after the Bharani asterism in the month of Pisces. Traditionally, the temple (especially during the Bharani festival) has been associated with animal sacrifices. The blood of the sacrificed used to be spilled over two stones in the prakaram, but these customs have been abolished in the 20th century. William Logan, a social historian of Kerala, noted in 1887 that, "after Onam, the national festival, Kodungallur Bharani was the most important celebration in Kerala."
Cheraman Jama Masjid was built around 629 AD by Malik Ibn Dinar in the typical local style of architecture and the bodies of some of the original followers are said to have been buried here. This is said to be the first mosque constructed in India.
St. Mar Thomas Church: the apostle St Thomas landed in Kodungallur in 52 AD. He established the church, which is believed to be the first Christian church in India. It still houses ancient relics.
St. Mar Thomas Church
Thiruvanchikulam Mahadeva temple is one of the oldest Siva temples in south India where Lord Siva is said to have lived along with his whole family. This temple has got a relation with south India's famousChidambaram temple. This temple has another rare event called "Anayottam" (elephant race) which is part of the annual festival. Lord Shiva of the Thiruvanchikulam temple is the family god of Cochin Royal Family (Perumpadapu Swaroopam). Thiruvanchikulam temple has the oldest reference in history in old Tamil sangam literature, well before before Malayalam was formed. Kavalappara Komban’s (Tusker) last crazy aggression was happened during the festival time of Thiruvanchikulam.
Edavilangu sivakrishnapuram temple is one of the oldest temples in Kodungallur. It is currently under the Cochin Devaswom Board, but is now looked after by the devotees of Edavilangu. Here,Lord Siva and Krishna are the main idols.
Cranganore Fort or also known as Kodungallur Fort, was built by the Portuguese in 1503.
Ramanchira Kulam
Padaa Kulam
Bala Ganesapuram Ganapathi temple
Cheriya KattuPuram
Various names
Kodungallur has enjoyed various names over the past.
In addition to those mentioned above, these names are Jangli, Gingaleh, Cyngilin, Shinkali, Chinkli/Jinkali, Shenkala and Cynkali. These names were all derived from the name of the river Changala [or Chain i.e. Shringala in Sanskrit] which originates at Kanjur from River Periyar [Periyar was known as Choorni in Sanskrit and Chulli (Ref: Poem No 149, Akananuru of Sangam literature) in ancient Dravidian language]).
Yet other names are Columguria, Vangi, Musirippattanam, Mahodayapuram, Kotilingapuram, Kudalingapuram, Makodai, Kodunkaliyur, Thiruvallur, RaviVisvapuram and Balakreetapuram.
There is also a belief that the name Kodungallur is derived from Kodi-linga-puram (10 million Siva Lingas). There is mention in Sangam literature of a ruler with the name Kudako (ruler of Kudanad, the land between River Periyar and River Ponnani). Kodungallur was the revenue collection center of Kudako for the goods coming to the port, hence the name Kudakonallur which later reduced to Kodugallur. The famous "Tazhapaya" market "Edavilangu" is situated in Konducalloor Taluk.
Transportation :
The coastal highway NH17 connecting Ernakulam and Mumbai passes through this town. The nearest railway station is Irinjalakuda and the airport is Cochin International. There is a KSRTC bustand and a private bus stand in the town. There are frequent bus services from here tothrissur, irinjalakuda, chalakudy, mala, North paravoor, Ernakulam, Aluva, Guruvayoor, Calicut etc from here. There are also long distance private bus services from and towards places like Kottayam, Pala, Kattapana and towards northern towns like kannur, iritty, payyanur, sulthan bathery, kasargod etc.
The Kollam - Kottapuram National Waterway III ends at Kodungallur. A terminus is located close to Kottapuram bridge. It is expected that the waterway will bring down the cost of transportation of goods in Kerala. Krishnankotta bridge has reduced the distance between the towns of Kodungallur, Mala and Chalakudy. A new bridge at Thuruthipuram is under construction, which will open a new route to Angamaly. This road is expected to reduce the distance between Malabar and the Kochi International Airport.
Have a look here ,
The Great Temple –Kodungallur Bagavathy (Old picture)
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